Life of Brine: A Surfer's Journey

Phil Jarratt

"In the not-so-small world of surfing, Phil Jarratt has seen it all. Luckily for us, he's a fearless, funny storyteller, with a reporter's unsentimental eye and an endearing modesty. But his memoir is, above all, a haunting self-portrait: the boy practising drop-knee cutbacks in his mother's full-length...